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North Greenville, an area known for little more industrial buildings,
dilapidated factories, and local government offices has rarely inspired
thoughts of a culinary destination. With little focus on aesthetic, N
Greene St in particular is in virtual ruins, a testimate of an area of
the city, which many residents have long forgotten. In such an area,
one would not expect much, if anything at all of the businesses that
line the area from the Tar River to Highway 11. But one would be
wrong. In the midst of one of Greenville’s biggest eyesores, is a small
restaurant, which offers what many others of its kind boast loudly, and
seldom provide…authenticity. El Azador, one of what seems like hundreds
of Mexican themed restaurants in the Greenville Area, has been somewhat
of a local secret due to its location. If you are expecting the fare of
restaurants like Taco Bell, Chili’s, or the hoards of generic “Mexican”
food peddlers…check your expectations at the door.
Pulling past a weathered sign that marks the
parking lot, I noticed that El Azador’s exterior matches the neglectful
maintenance of its few neighboring buildings. Faded yellow paint, rusty
fenced windows, and several poorly made flyers posted sparatically give
me the inescapable impression that I am not in for a fine-dining
experience. Entering the restaurant, the aesthetic is barely improved,
A large counter with little functionality other than hosting 3 menu
boards and a cash register, is littered with various publications,
advertisements, and a bottle opener. Several old café style tables and
benches are surrounded by little more than a Pepsi cooler, a wall of
various Mexican snacks, and a small television tuned to a Spanish
speaking station. The quality of the appearance however, was an
afterthought upon entering, due to the strong aromas of stewing meats,
grilled vegetables and chiles, and various spices that were wafting
through the restaurant, arousing my appetite.
Behind the counter, I spot a young and pleasant
woman and request the special of the day, as the menu is predominantly
in Spanish. I grab a Jarritos Fruit Punch (Mexican soda) and take a
seat. While I look around, I notice the young woman hard at work behind
the counter. Curious, I stand up to examine her work, and realize that
she was preparing tortillas for my meal from scratch. After a few
minutes my entrée arrives. The special of the day was a stewed pork
dish with peppers and potatoes, marinated in a spicy red sauce. With
the entrée, I was served rice, fresh refried beans, and of course my
hand made tortillas. The pork was so tender it almost melted away the
moment it touched my mouth. The sauce coating the pork had a hint of
heat, but surely did not overwhelm the subtle marriage of garlic,
onions, chiles, tomatoes, and cumin that seemed to dance upon my
palette. In addition to my pork dish, I also had a beef tongue taco (a
personal favorite) which was topped with fresh cilantro, onions, and
lime juice. The taco was extremely tender, juicy, and packed with
flavor.
While the appearance, location, and atmosphere of
El Azador are less than perfect, the food is on a whole other level when
compared to any of the other Mexican or Tex-Mex style restaurants in the
Greenville area. El Azador is located at 1200 N Greene St. More
information can be obtained by calling 252-353-4229.
Location: F | Atmosphere: F | Service: A | Food Quality: A+
Price Range: $1.50 – $13.99
Overall Grade: C+
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